We sell blade blanks, so we have an obvious interest in one answer. Here is where each option genuinely wins - including the cases where forging your own is the better choice.
Micarta and stabilised wood need nothing. Natural wood needs sealing, and the wrong finish ends up in the food. What to use, what to avoid, and how to care for the edge.
The grind decides how a knife cuts more than the steel does. Scandi, full flat, convex and sabre compared - and why this is the one choice a blade blank makes for you.
Your blank arrived sharp. Keeping it that way is a different and much easier job than creating an edge - provided you use an abrasive that can actually cut your steel.
Elmax, M390, Vanax and Vanadis 4 Extra cost more than N690. What powder metallurgy actually changes, what the cryogenic step does, and when the premium is worth paying.
The blade decides how a knife cuts. The handle decides whether you want to pick it up. Four families of handle material compared - what each is genuinely good at, and which to choose for your build.
Gyuto, santoku, nakiri, kiritsuke, deba. If these words mean nothing to you, picking the wrong one means a knife that fights you every time you cook. Here is what each shape is genuinely for.
Most first builds come down to these three. All stainless, all from Voestalpine, and not interchangeable. What actually separates them, with the hardness figures we run.
Test.
We laser cut and hand grind every blade in our own workshop, then ship it back to Voestalpine — the mill that made the steel — for vacuum heat treatment. It costs us freight and time on every batch. This is why we do it.
The blade arrives finished. Everything left happens at the handle. Pins, Corby bolts or Loveless bolts, which epoxy to use, and why glue alone eventually fails.
Almost nobody publishes the hardness of a blade blank. It matters more than the steel name: a soft premium steel will underperform a properly hardened budget one. Here is what HRC means, and the confirmed figure for every steel we sell.
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